How I love these long, languorous, lazy June days, when the garden is resplendent in its finest, jewel coloured blooms and the 'potager' is already producing copious quantities of lettuce varieties, rocket, sorrel, chervil, parsley, marjoram and much, much more. The promise of peas, beans, tomatoes and courgettes to come is eagerly anticipated, 'limaces' and 'escargots' permitting. This year has been particularly bad for the slimy sods and we have had to resort to those bright little balls of brilliant cobalt, which you have to double check in the salad spinner for fear of ingesting the odd stray. The sunshine has made the world of difference too. Sadly, as a result, we've polished off all the strawberries in an orgy of excess.
Salads are the order of the day because the more you cut, the more they come. Whilst the variety and quality of lettuce in France is far superior to those available in the UK, I cannot understand why so many people don't grow their own. I am the world's laziest gardener but even I feel a huge sense of pride when I see the fruits of my minimal labours. A packet of seed [well, only part of one], a quick transfer from seed trays to 'potager', followed by an instant manicure, a splash of water and Bob's votre oncle! Nothing could be simpler and the ensuing taste sensation is exponentially disproportionate to the work involved. There is nothing better for one's health than a diet of sunshine and home grown salads.
SIMPLE GOAT'S CHEESE SALAD
I like to use the little baby 'crottins' from local artisans who sell on the Saturday morning market in St Girons, but you can use 'bouches', cut into 2cm slices, from the supermarket. You can use either walnuts and walnut oil, or hazlenuts and hazelnut oil, but not a combination unless you like your flavours muddied.
Serves 4
4 'crottins' of individual soft goat's cheese, or 4 slices cut from a 'bouche de chevre'
couple sprigs fresh thyme from the 'potager'
200g salad leaves
50g walnuts or hazlenuts
4 slices 'flute' [baguettes are generally too small in diameter]
olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the vinaigrette
3 tbs walnut or hazlenut oil
1 tbs white wine vinegar
1 clove garlic, crushed
squeeze fresh lemon juice
salt and black pepper
Preheat the oven to 200C.
Place the 'crottins' on a baking tray with either half a walnut each and a few thyme leaves, or a few crushed hazlenuts and thyme leaves, and drizzle with a little olive oil. Season with salt and black pepper and bake for 5-6 minutes until warmed through but not melted.
Crush remaining nuts in the mortar with a pestle.
Wash and spin the lettuce leaves, put in a bowl and add the crushed nuts.
Toast the 'flute' slices until golden brown.
Put the walnut or hazlenut oil into a jar, with the vinegar, garlic, lemon, salt and pepper and shake well to combine. Drizzle some over salad leaves and nuts and toss together.
To serve, arrange the salad leaves on individual plates [I like blue ones for salad!] and place a toasted crouton on each. Top with the hot goat's cheeses and spoon over the remaining vinaigrette to serve. C'est tres simple. Voila!
SKYE GYNGELL'S CAESAR SALAD DRESSING
Ever since we lived in St Margaret's and bought our garden plants from the Petersham Nurseries, I have loved Skye's deceptively simple ways with food - she is the queen of fresh.
Serves 4
2 organic free range egg yolks
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 tsp powdered mustard
4 very good quality anchovies [from Collioure close to the Spanish border, if you can get them - worth the trip just for a couple of jars and a stunning day out!]
juice 1/2 [half] lemon
200mls extra virgin olive oil [the best]
60 g freshly grated parmesan [you can get it from Mme Gilbert or from the cheese counter in the St Lizier 'Les Mousquetaires']
1 generous tbsp creme fraiche
Method
Place the yolks, garlic, mustard, anchovies and lemon juice into a food processor and turn on. Slowly pour the oil through the funnel in the top, blending until smooth. Tip into a bowl and stir in the parmesan and creme fresh. The finished dressing should fall easily from a spoon; if it is too thick, loosen with a little water. Set aside for the salad of your choice.
SALAD OF TORN BREAD, BAYONNE HAM, TOMATOES AND CAESAR DRESSING
4 slices 'pain de campagne', 2.5cms thick
1 clove garlic peeled
30ml extra virgin olive oil plus 1 tbsp
1 raddicchio [from 'Tutti-Frutti' in St Girons]
squeeze of lemon
4 firm green tomatoes [there should be some on the tomato plants in the 'potager'], or red or yellow ones
8 very fine slices bayonne ham
Method
Grill the bread on both sides until golden brown. Whilst it is still warm, gently rub with the garlic clove and drizzle over the olive oil. Tear into pieces of varying sizes.
Discard the outer leaves of the radicchio, separate the rest, wash and pat dry and tear into large, generous strips. Toss with 1 tbs olive oil, a pinch of salt and a squeeze of lemon.
Slice the tomatoes into rounds and season.
Arrange the bread, radicchio, tomato and ham onto individual plates and drizzle over the Caesar dressing. Formidable!
FRIED HALLOUMI SALAD
My daughter loves halloumi and I often just fry a few slices to add to a salad of fresh leaves, herbs, mint, finely sliced onions steeped for half an hour in freshly squeezed lemon juice, and kalamata olives instead of feta. To ring the changes, I got this recipe from Hugh F-W's Guardian Weekend Column because I have loved the addition of flaming, smoky paprika ever since we lived in Madrid.
Serves 4
1 small red onion, very finely sliced
150g cucumber, cut into chunks
200g cherry tomatoes, halved
50 g kalamata olives, stoned
large handful mint leaves, roughly shredded
large handful flat leaf parsley leaves
50g plain flour
1/2 tsp smoked paprika
250g halloumi cheese, cut into 8 slices
2 tbs rapeseed or olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the dressing
1 tsp clear honey
juice half lemon
1 small garlic clove, crushed
1 pinch dried chilli flakes
1 pinch sea salt
3 tbs rapeseed or olive oil
First, make the dressing. Stir together the honey, lemon juice, garlic, chilli flakes and salt until well combined, then whisk in the oil. In a large bowl, toss together the onion, cucumber, tomatoes, olives, mint and parsley.
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, paprika and some salt and pepper. Moisten the halloumi slices slightly with water, then press into the seasoned flour and shake off any excess. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the halloumi over a medium heat for about two minutes on each side, until golden and slightly softened on the inside.
Toss the salad vegetables with the dressing, turning them over with your hands to make sure everything is lightly coated. Divide the salad between four plates, put two pieces of hot halloumi on each one and serve immediately. The result is a feast of fabulous colour for the eyes as well as the stomach. Bon appetit!
Friday, 25 June 2010
Tuesday, 1 June 2010
Memories of Marrakech
Courtesy of my baby brother, who very kindly drove his borrowed work van full of internet purchases all the way to Bardies for me, we are now in possession of two fabulous cast iron Moroccan fire baskets. Not only will they take the chill off cooler nights dining on the terrace or under the trees, but they will also enable us to cook authentic tagines on the cast iron griddle plate that sits on the top, and many other dishes besides. I'm like a child with a new toy! Food tastes so much better in the open air and the smell of Moroccan spices wafting on the night air at Bardies will remind us of the culinary joys of the Djemaa el-Fna.
I use Moroccan spices often, especially whole cumin and coriander seeds tempered in a skillet over a medium heat until you can smell the release of their heady aromas. I then grind them fine with a pestle and mortar to add to any number of dishes or to make a 'chermoula' paste with which to marinate fish, chicken, lamb or even duck [ideally, for 24 hours]. It works better if you slash the skin first to allow the spices to penetrate the flesh.
CHERMOULA
2 tsp cumin seeds tempered and ground with 2 tsp coriander seeds
handful each fresh coriander and flat parsley leaves, chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 tsp paprika
1 tsp dried or freshly grated ginger
1 red chilli, seeds removed and finely chopped
juice of 1 lemon and 1 lime
100 mls olive oil
sea salt, ground black pepper
pinch cayenne pepper [optional]
Blend together in a large pestle and mortar [or a food processor, using the 'pulse' button to stop the ingredients becoming too paste-like, and use to marinade liberally. You can add other ingredients to the ground paste for extra 'texture' and a heftier marinade. Chopped black or green olives, finely chopped red or white onion, sliced spring onions or some chopped preserved lemon for an extra kick make great additions. The addition of preserved lemon is particularly good with fish and chicken.
Cook on the brazier, turning often.
SIDE DISHES
WHITE ONION, BLACK OLIVE AND LEMON SALAD
I romaine lettuce, washed and roughly torn
2 onions, finely sliced and marinated for at least 30 minutes in the juice of 2 lemons
20 black olives
handful of flat leafed parsley leaves, roughly chopped
shards of lemon peel, pared with a vegetable peeler and all pith removed
half teaspoon freshly tempered and ground cumin
half teaspoon paprika
4 tbs good quality extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the lettuce, drained onions, olives and parsley leaves into a salad bowl. Whisk together the remaining ingredients, including the discarded lemon marinade from the onions, and pour over the salad when ready to serve.
WATERCRESS, GREEN OLIVE, ORANGE AND ONION SALAD
You can, of course, also use black olives and substitute watercress with wild rocket.
Large bunch watercress, thoroughly washed
5 oranges, peeled, pith removed and cut into wedges
20 green olives
2 red onions, sliced into fine rings
juice of half a lemon
4 tablespoons good quality extra virgin olive oil
half teaspoon freshly ground cumin
half teaspoon paprika
pinch ground chilli powder, or cayenne pepper
handful flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped
Put the salad ingredients into a bowl, then whisk together the spices, olive oil and lemon juice and pour over when ready to serve.
CARROT AND CORIANDER SALAD
500g carrots, peeled and cut into sticks
4 cloves garlic, peeled
4 tbs good, extra virgin olive oil
2 tbs cider or white wine vinegar
1 tsp freshly ground cumin
1 tsp ground paprika
sea salt and black pepper
handful fresh coriander leaves, roughly chopped
Cook the carrots with the garlic cloves until 'al dente'. Drain and remove the garlic cloves. Put the carrots into a warmed serving dish. Crush the garlic cloves and add these to the other dressing ingredients. Whisk together, pour over the warm carrots and leave at room temperature to infuse for 30 minutes. When ready to serve, sprinkle some fresh coriander leaves over the top to decorate.
CHICKEN TAGINE
The smell of a warming tagine cooking in the open air is one of the great joys of life. It has become something of a tradition at our 'Blues at Bardies' festivals, where Aline and her helpers spend the whole of Saturday afternoon slaving over massive authentic tagines while our guests immerse themselves in the music. Hers is a fragrant lamb tagine, served with masses of cous-cous and home-made flat bread. This chicken recipe is improvised from a beautiful cookery book called 'Feast Bazaar' by Barry Vera. It's light and summery and very easy.
Serves 8-10
2 whole Gers corn fed chickens, cut into 8 pieces each
120 ml olive oil
3 onions, finely chopped
5-6 garlic cloves, crushed
pinch saffron threads
1 tsp ground ginger
500 mls fresh chicken stock
2 tbs lemon juice
large bunch coriander leaves, chopped
large bunch flat leaf parsley leaves, chopped
peel of 2 preserved lemons, pith removed, rinsed well and roughly chopped
about 30 green olives
2 large jars, or tins, artichokes in brine [800g], rinsed well and cut into quarters
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil gently in a tagine over the brazier, being very careful that the heat from the wood is not so excessive as to shatter the tagine. Add the onions and gently saute until soft. Add the garlic, saffron and ginger and stir together to coat. Add the chicken pieces and chicken stock and season to taste. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 20 minutes.
Remove the chicken breast pieces and continue to cook the rest of the chicken pieces for another 15-20 minutes, until tender, then return the breasts. Add the lemon juice, herbs, preserved lemon and olives and simmer for a further 5-8 minutes until the sauce thickens slightly. Stir in the artichokes and heat through. Scatter with coriander leaves and serve immediately.
LAMB TAGINE
Serves 6
1 tbs olive oil
500g lamb, cut into 2 cm cubes
1 onion finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
half teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
half teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 tbs fresh lemon juice
375 ml homemade chicken stock
50g dried apricots, soaked in warm water
60g raisins
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Heat the oil in the tagine over a medium heat. Add the lamb pieces and cook for 7 or 8 minutes, until browned on all sides. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the onion is soft. Be careful not to burn the garlic. Add the nutmeg, cinnamon and lemon juice and cook for 1 minute.
Add the chicken stock and bring to the boil. Put the lid on the tagine and simmer slowly for at least an hour, until the meat is tender. Drain the apricots and add them to the pan with the raisins. Stir through, adding more water if necessary. Simmer for a further 20 minutes, making sure to skim off any scum that may appear on the surface. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper and serve immediately, scattered with finely chopped flat leaf parsley.
COUSCOUS
Couscous is one of the essentials of Berber cooking, made from semolina, water and flour, and it takes a lot of work! In comparison, our supermarket versions take 5 minutes and a kettle of boiling water. The combinations of flavourings are endless, with the simplest just requiring lots of fresh herbs, some good olive oil and good home made stock. Always read the instructions on the packet. I generally use medium sized grains but it doesn't really matter. I always put the dried couscous into a large bowl, add water that is on the boil and a splash of good olive oil, and cover it immediately with a clean teacloth, which I remove after 5 minutes, when I fluff up the grains with a fork.
You can add:
a tray of roasted Mediterranean vegetables
toasted pine nuts
a tin of chick peas
red peppers, roasted dry in the oven, de-skinned and de-seeded, and sliced
sun dried tomatoes
pomegranate seeds
masses of fresh mint, coriander and/ or flat leaf parsley
feta cheese
chopped raw courgette
chopped fresh tomato
chopped cucumber
chopped spring onion
raisins, sultanans, dates or chopped dried apricots
grated carrot
chopped celery
chopped fennel
.....the possibilities are endless! For the dressing, I like to add some ground cumin and coriander, and harissa paste, to the olive oil, along with fresh lime or lemon juice, sea salt and freshly ground pepper and lots of finely chopped herbs. You can also make a warming winter couscous with the addition of warm vegetables, such as celery, carrot, onion, garlic, lentils, tomatoes or chickpeas.
I use Moroccan spices often, especially whole cumin and coriander seeds tempered in a skillet over a medium heat until you can smell the release of their heady aromas. I then grind them fine with a pestle and mortar to add to any number of dishes or to make a 'chermoula' paste with which to marinate fish, chicken, lamb or even duck [ideally, for 24 hours]. It works better if you slash the skin first to allow the spices to penetrate the flesh.
CHERMOULA
2 tsp cumin seeds tempered and ground with 2 tsp coriander seeds
handful each fresh coriander and flat parsley leaves, chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 tsp paprika
1 tsp dried or freshly grated ginger
1 red chilli, seeds removed and finely chopped
juice of 1 lemon and 1 lime
100 mls olive oil
sea salt, ground black pepper
pinch cayenne pepper [optional]
Blend together in a large pestle and mortar [or a food processor, using the 'pulse' button to stop the ingredients becoming too paste-like, and use to marinade liberally. You can add other ingredients to the ground paste for extra 'texture' and a heftier marinade. Chopped black or green olives, finely chopped red or white onion, sliced spring onions or some chopped preserved lemon for an extra kick make great additions. The addition of preserved lemon is particularly good with fish and chicken.
Cook on the brazier, turning often.
SIDE DISHES
WHITE ONION, BLACK OLIVE AND LEMON SALAD
I romaine lettuce, washed and roughly torn
2 onions, finely sliced and marinated for at least 30 minutes in the juice of 2 lemons
20 black olives
handful of flat leafed parsley leaves, roughly chopped
shards of lemon peel, pared with a vegetable peeler and all pith removed
half teaspoon freshly tempered and ground cumin
half teaspoon paprika
4 tbs good quality extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the lettuce, drained onions, olives and parsley leaves into a salad bowl. Whisk together the remaining ingredients, including the discarded lemon marinade from the onions, and pour over the salad when ready to serve.
WATERCRESS, GREEN OLIVE, ORANGE AND ONION SALAD
You can, of course, also use black olives and substitute watercress with wild rocket.
Large bunch watercress, thoroughly washed
5 oranges, peeled, pith removed and cut into wedges
20 green olives
2 red onions, sliced into fine rings
juice of half a lemon
4 tablespoons good quality extra virgin olive oil
half teaspoon freshly ground cumin
half teaspoon paprika
pinch ground chilli powder, or cayenne pepper
handful flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped
Put the salad ingredients into a bowl, then whisk together the spices, olive oil and lemon juice and pour over when ready to serve.
CARROT AND CORIANDER SALAD
500g carrots, peeled and cut into sticks
4 cloves garlic, peeled
4 tbs good, extra virgin olive oil
2 tbs cider or white wine vinegar
1 tsp freshly ground cumin
1 tsp ground paprika
sea salt and black pepper
handful fresh coriander leaves, roughly chopped
Cook the carrots with the garlic cloves until 'al dente'. Drain and remove the garlic cloves. Put the carrots into a warmed serving dish. Crush the garlic cloves and add these to the other dressing ingredients. Whisk together, pour over the warm carrots and leave at room temperature to infuse for 30 minutes. When ready to serve, sprinkle some fresh coriander leaves over the top to decorate.
CHICKEN TAGINE
The smell of a warming tagine cooking in the open air is one of the great joys of life. It has become something of a tradition at our 'Blues at Bardies' festivals, where Aline and her helpers spend the whole of Saturday afternoon slaving over massive authentic tagines while our guests immerse themselves in the music. Hers is a fragrant lamb tagine, served with masses of cous-cous and home-made flat bread. This chicken recipe is improvised from a beautiful cookery book called 'Feast Bazaar' by Barry Vera. It's light and summery and very easy.
Serves 8-10
2 whole Gers corn fed chickens, cut into 8 pieces each
120 ml olive oil
3 onions, finely chopped
5-6 garlic cloves, crushed
pinch saffron threads
1 tsp ground ginger
500 mls fresh chicken stock
2 tbs lemon juice
large bunch coriander leaves, chopped
large bunch flat leaf parsley leaves, chopped
peel of 2 preserved lemons, pith removed, rinsed well and roughly chopped
about 30 green olives
2 large jars, or tins, artichokes in brine [800g], rinsed well and cut into quarters
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil gently in a tagine over the brazier, being very careful that the heat from the wood is not so excessive as to shatter the tagine. Add the onions and gently saute until soft. Add the garlic, saffron and ginger and stir together to coat. Add the chicken pieces and chicken stock and season to taste. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 20 minutes.
Remove the chicken breast pieces and continue to cook the rest of the chicken pieces for another 15-20 minutes, until tender, then return the breasts. Add the lemon juice, herbs, preserved lemon and olives and simmer for a further 5-8 minutes until the sauce thickens slightly. Stir in the artichokes and heat through. Scatter with coriander leaves and serve immediately.
LAMB TAGINE
Serves 6
1 tbs olive oil
500g lamb, cut into 2 cm cubes
1 onion finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, crushed
half teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
half teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 tbs fresh lemon juice
375 ml homemade chicken stock
50g dried apricots, soaked in warm water
60g raisins
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Heat the oil in the tagine over a medium heat. Add the lamb pieces and cook for 7 or 8 minutes, until browned on all sides. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the onion is soft. Be careful not to burn the garlic. Add the nutmeg, cinnamon and lemon juice and cook for 1 minute.
Add the chicken stock and bring to the boil. Put the lid on the tagine and simmer slowly for at least an hour, until the meat is tender. Drain the apricots and add them to the pan with the raisins. Stir through, adding more water if necessary. Simmer for a further 20 minutes, making sure to skim off any scum that may appear on the surface. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper and serve immediately, scattered with finely chopped flat leaf parsley.
COUSCOUS
Couscous is one of the essentials of Berber cooking, made from semolina, water and flour, and it takes a lot of work! In comparison, our supermarket versions take 5 minutes and a kettle of boiling water. The combinations of flavourings are endless, with the simplest just requiring lots of fresh herbs, some good olive oil and good home made stock. Always read the instructions on the packet. I generally use medium sized grains but it doesn't really matter. I always put the dried couscous into a large bowl, add water that is on the boil and a splash of good olive oil, and cover it immediately with a clean teacloth, which I remove after 5 minutes, when I fluff up the grains with a fork.
You can add:
a tray of roasted Mediterranean vegetables
toasted pine nuts
a tin of chick peas
red peppers, roasted dry in the oven, de-skinned and de-seeded, and sliced
sun dried tomatoes
pomegranate seeds
masses of fresh mint, coriander and/ or flat leaf parsley
feta cheese
chopped raw courgette
chopped fresh tomato
chopped cucumber
chopped spring onion
raisins, sultanans, dates or chopped dried apricots
grated carrot
chopped celery
chopped fennel
.....the possibilities are endless! For the dressing, I like to add some ground cumin and coriander, and harissa paste, to the olive oil, along with fresh lime or lemon juice, sea salt and freshly ground pepper and lots of finely chopped herbs. You can also make a warming winter couscous with the addition of warm vegetables, such as celery, carrot, onion, garlic, lentils, tomatoes or chickpeas.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
