Wild Food

Wild! I'm so cross I can't be at Bardies this week because of the ash fallout from Mount Unpronounceable. I was going to plant my French Sorrel [Rumex scutatus], my Salad Rocket [Eruca sativa], Chervil [Anthriscus cerefolium], as well as my 'Kelvedon Wonder' peas and regular green dwarf French beans interspersed with 'Borlotto Firetongue' red French beans. I was also going to do some serious cooking for my garden helpers, Sarah and Pasqual, and Tim and Tina. This is always such a busy time of year in the garden, and also the most exciting.

One thing I love to make at this time of year is Nettle Soup. At Bardies, I can make or freeze masses and feel sanctimonious at the same time. Instead, I have been collecting them from my riverside walks in Laverstock with Charlie, our dog. At this time of year, they are prolific everywhere in the countryside. Sadly, they are ignored by almost everyone as a nutritious and tasty food source. My Irish ancestors would have understood the health benefits, as well as the expediency in famine raged lean times, swearing blind that eating nettles in May purified the blood. Talking of the Irish, I learnt this recipe on a foraging course with the divine Darina Allen at Ballymaloe, near Shanagarry, west of Cork.

NETTLE SOUP for 6

45g butter
285g potatoes
110g onions, chopped
110g leeks, chopped
rock salt and ground black pepper
1 litre good homemade chicken stock
140g young nettles, washed and chopped [pick them with gloves on!]
150ml full fat milk

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan and, when it foams, add the potatoes, onions and leeks, tossing them until they are well coated. Season generously. Cover with a paper lid [to keep in the steam] and put the saucepan lid on. Sweat gently for 10 minutes until the vegetables are soft but not coloured.

Discard the paper lid and add the chicken stock. Boil gently until the vegetables are just cooked, then add the washed and chopped nettle leaves [watch out for volcanic ash!]. Simmer uncovered for just a few minutes. Do not overcook! Add the creamy milk, cool slightly and put in the blender. Taste and adjust seasoning if desired. Serve hot [preferably with Darina's cheesy muffins or brown soda bread!].

CHEESY MUFFINS - makes 12-14

225g plain white flour
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 [half] tsp salt
pinch cayenne pepper
2 organic eggs
225mls milk [or buttermilk, yoghurt or sour cream]
10g caster sugar
75mls sunflower oil
225mls grated cheese [ I like to crumble a little bit of Roquefort into a mix of varieties, depending on what's in the fridge]

Preheat the oven to 200C/ 400F/ gas 6

Mix the flour, baking powder, salt and cayenne in a bowl. In another bowl, whisk the eggs with the milk, yoghurt or sour cream. Pour the liquid into the dry ingredients and stir to barely combine. Do not overmix or you will have heavy, tough muffins. Gently fold in the grated cheese and spoon into muffin cases in a muffin tray. Bake for 20 minutes or until pale golden brown. Cool a little on a wire rack and serve with the Nettle Soup whilst still warm.

A divine and impressive lunch, followed by nothing more than fresh fruit.